Restaurant Review

Michelin Marathon – Restaurant #02/22

Verdict in 30 Seconds

• Why go: Warm, witty service that never feels scripted. A bread sommelier recites more than 20 loaves from memory. Venison and Tench are the standouts.
• Watch out for: Slow email replies when booking & communicating (7/10). Allow extra time to confirm your reservation
• Best moment: Choosing your honey from four bee varieties & and a server who, when I joked about me licking my plate clean, she said "It would be so memorable for me if you did."

Introduction

Steirereck, set in Vienna’s Stadtpark, is one of Austria’s most celebrated restaurants, renowned for Heinz Reitbauer’s modern interpretation of Austrian cuisine using seasonal, regional ingredients. Jointly run by Heinz & Birgit Reitbauer, it was awarded a third Michelin star in 2025, becoming Vienna’s second 3-star Michelin restaurant, alongside Amador.

The Entry

My first impression of the entrance was how modern and dramatic it looked at night. A wide staircase, softly lit along each step, led up between dark reflective walls to the glass doors. The warm lighting made the entrance feel inviting, while the planters and surrounding trees softened the otherwise sleek design. With very little signage, it felt understated and exclusive—as though you had arrived somewhere special without the restaurant needing to announce itself.

Welcome

Walking into the restaurant, I was greeted by two impeccably presented front-of-house staff members whose warm smiles immediately created a welcoming first impression. After introducing myself just once, and barely having to finish saying my name, my reservation was recognised within seconds and I was promptly escorted to my table. This was a clear indication that the staff were well aware of my Michelin marathon project in advance. Along the way, I was warmly welcomed by co-owner Birgit Reitbauer, whose friendly and engaging personality added a personal touch to the arrival experience.

Entering the main dining room revealed an elegant, softly lit space designed for relaxed and indulgent dining. Contemporary furnishings, warm tones and carefully considered lighting created an atmosphere that felt both refined and comfortable. My table, a generously sized round table with crisp linen, was adorned with the restaurant's signature small bouquet of freesias flowers adding a subtle touch of charm.

Menu

The menu offered considerable flexibility, with a choice of either a 6 or 7-course tasting menu alongside an à la carte selection. I opted for the 7-course tasting menu, which featured a unique format allowing guests to choose between two dishes for each course. The dishes I selected are highlighted in red in the accompanying menu photograph at the end.

To accompany the meal, I chose the matched wine pairing despite some reservations following my experience the previous evening. As it turned out, that decision would prove to be an interesting one, for reasons I will discuss later in this post.

Service Observations

It was evident from the moment I sat down that the staff genuinely belonged in a restaurant of this calibre. Their confidence, body language, warmth and natural sense of humour created an atmosphere that felt both professional and relaxed.

Birgit personally took my order and, when I mentioned that I needed to be careful with the wine pairing because I had to drive later, she immediately replied that she would arrange me to be carried to my car if necessary. I suggested that I might need carrying all the way back to my hotel instead 😊. On another occasion, after finishing a particularly enjoyable course, I joked to a staff member clearing my plates that, if I wasn't going to be judged by the other guests, "I would happily lick the plate clean". Without hesitation, she responded: "It would be so memorable for me if you did." These spontaneous exchanges added personality and authenticity to the service, making it feel genuine rather than scripted.

All members of the team were impeccably groomed and elegantly presented. Senior staff wore tailored black two-piece suits with a black tie, while junior staff wore matching tailored attire featuring a distinctive vest, French cuffed white shirt with cufflinks and a black tie. Such attention to presentation helps reinforce the sense that guests are dining somewhere truly special rather than simply visiting another low tier restaurant.

Bread Sommelier

Carting an impressive bread trolley overflowing with more than twenty varieties of bread, the restaurant’s dedicated bread sommelier delivered one of the most remarkable presentations of the evening. Without notes or hesitation, each loaf was introduced entirely from memory, from rustic sourdoughs and seeded rye breads to regional specialities and artisanal creations. The performance was as much a masterclass as it was a service ritual, demonstrating an extraordinary depth of knowledge and passion for bread. In an era where bread service is often little more than a basket placed on the table, this theatrical and highly personalised presentation elevated a simple staple into a memorable dining experience in its own right.

Wine Pairing

The sommelier arrived with the wine selections and briefly explained the pairing philosophy. Listening to descriptors such as "berries", "oak", "cinnamon", "complexity" & "buttery" reminded me how much there is still to learn in the language of wine.

After I mentioned that I am generally more of a red wine enthusiast than a white wine drinker, the sommelier proactively adjusted several of the pairings. From the very first glass, the selections complemented the food beautifully and demonstrated both thought and flexibility. While I felt a couple of the red substitutions were not quite as seamless as the original pairing concept may have been, the red substitution result was still highly successful and easily deserving of a strong 9/10.

Each wine was served in a carefully selected glass, many of them exceptionally delicate and elegant. I was so impressed by the variety that I eventually lined the glasses along the edge of my table for a photograph at the end. One stem of a particular glass was so fine and thin, it felt as though it might break if I sneezed on it too heavily.

Overall

Steirereck delivered an experience that combined exceptional cuisine with genuinely warm and engaging hospitality. From the seamless arrival and personal welcome from co-owner Birgit Reitbauer to the confident yet relaxed service throughout the evening, the restaurant succeeded in feeling both highly polished and remarkably personal. The dining room provided an elegant setting, while thoughtful touches and natural interactions with the staff made the experience memorable beyond the food itself.

As a fitting conclusion to the evening, Heinz & Birgit Reitbauer approached me just as I was preparing to leave for an impromptu chat. During the conversation, Birgit even shared some advice and encouragement regarding my on going Michelin marathon, a gesture that perfectly reflected the genuine hospitality displayed throughout the experience.

The 7-course menu showcased precise technique, outstanding produce and a level of guest engagement rarely seen at this level, from choosing dishes throughout the menu to selecting a preferred honey variety for dessert. Combined with a thoughtfully adapted wine pairing and consistently attentive service, Steirereck proved itself to be a thoroughly deserving 3-star Michelin restaurant and one of the highlights of my journey so far.

Food Commentary

1. Tiger Trout

The menu opened on a high note with the tiger trout, a beautifully composed dish that highlighted the fish's delicate flavour and silky texture. The cucumber provided freshness, while fennel pollen and hot lemon chilli added subtle aromatic complexity without overpowering the star ingredient. Refined, balanced and elegant, it was an excellent introduction to the meal. I later discovered that the dish’s unexpected sweetness came from the sweet chilli.

2. Badger Flame

The golden beetroot was presented with impressive precision, showcasing both sweetness and earthiness. Celeriac added depth, while the citrus fruits and buchu brought brightness and lift. The dish demonstrated a thoughtful balance of flavours and textures, transforming humble vegetables into something memorable and sophisticated.

3. Tench

A standout savoury course, the tench was cooked with great care, resulting in moist flesh and a clean, delicate flavour. The pointed cabbage contributed sweetness and texture, while the bitter salad introduced contrast and complexity. Monarda tied the elements together, creating a harmonious dish that was both elegant and engaging.

4. Veal Tongue

The perfectly cooked veal tongue was exceptionally tender and showcased the kitchen's technical ability. Peppers and bergamot provided acidity and fragrance that helped cut through the richness of the meat, while the potatoes offered comfort and familiarity. The result was a dish that managed to feel both rustic and highly refined.

5. Venison

One of the strongest courses of the evening, the venison was beautifully cooked to a deep pink centre with excellent moisture and tenderness. The golden beetroot, Swiss chard and butter dumplings complemented the meat well, while the rich sauce added depth and brought the dish together. A confident and technically accomplished course.

6. Bergamot

The first dessert provided a refreshing transition from the savoury courses. Before the dish was served, I was invited to select my preferred honey from four different bee varieties presented tableside in a honeycomb display, adding an interactive and highly personalised element to the experience. The bergamot granita delivered bright citrus notes, while the chosen honey and bee pollen introduced floral sweetness and texture. Light, clean and refreshing, it effectively reset the palate.

7. Peach

A charming conclusion to the tasting menu, the peach dessert combined ripe fruit with buttery brioche, fragrant lavender and marigold. The flavours were delicate yet clearly defined, creating a dessert that felt elegant rather than overly sweet. A fitting finale that left a lasting impression of balance and restraint.

Experience Score

Reservation Process

7/10

Welcome

9/10

Atmosphere

9/10

Room Decor

9/10

Food Theatre

9/10

Food Presentation

8/10

Food Taste

9.5/10

Food Portions

9/10

Dinnerware

8/10

Attentiveness

9/10

Service

9/10

Staff Knowledge

8.5/10

Staff Attire

10/10

Passion

8.5/10

Sommelier

10/10

Wine Pairing

9/10

Guest Dress Std

8/10

Value

10/10