Restaurant Review

Michelin Marathon – Restaurant #06/22

Verdict in 30 Seconds

Why go: Exceptional three-star cuisine showcasing the essence of the Chiemgau region, delivered with remarkable precision, originality and understated elegance. The service team combines warmth, professionalism and extensive product knowledge, while Chef Edip's passion and humility permeate every aspect of the experience.
Watch out for: The bread service. What appears to be a simple accompaniment is very addictive and can significantly diminish one's appetite for the courses that follow.
Best moment: The unexpected 30-minute conversation with Chef Edip. Beyond discussing Michelin recognition, leadership and perfection, one statement in particular resonated with me: “I need to be better today than yesterday, and better tomorrow than today.”

Introduction

Located approx. 100km east of Munich, and within the Das Achental resort in Grassau near Lake Chiemsee, es:senz is the culinary vision of Chef Edip Sigl, whose cuisine is rooted in showcasing the pure flavours of the Chiemgau region through minimalism, precision and exceptional produce. The restaurant opened in 2021, with the name “es:senz” reflecting both chef Edip’s initials and his philosophy of focusing on the essence of each ingredient. Within just a year of opening, es:senz was awarded two Michelin stars, before achieving the coveted third Michelin star in 2024, cementing its place among Germany’s culinary elites.

Before opening es:senz, chef Edip built an impressive résumé at Gut Lärchenhof, Hugos Berlin, Residenz Heinz Winkler, Juan Amador and Les Deux in Munich, where he led the restaurant to two Michelin stars. His cuisine today combines classical technique with modern creativity, placing regional ingredients at the centre of the experience.

Course Commentary

Hover over 'Photo No' against each dish to reveal a thumbnail of that dish. Clicking that will take you directly to the photo gallery of that dish.

1. Pork Belly (Photo 6)

gherkin | quail egg | beetroot

The first amuse-bouche was visually striking in its simplicity. A vibrant disc of beetroot sat atop a silky white base, finished with a delicate herb garnish. Beyond the elegant presentation, the dish delivered a harmonious balance of earthy beetroot, subtle acidity from the gherkin and the richness of quail egg, creating a refined and refreshing opening to the evening.

2. Pike Quenelle (Photo 7)

peas | crispy chicken skin | N25 caviar

The second amuse-bouche elevated both flavour and texture. A delicate pike quenelle formed the foundation, surrounded by a light, airy sauce and topped with a shard of crisp chicken skin crowned with N25 caviar. Sweet peas and aromatic herbs added freshness and colour, while the caviar introduced a luxurious salinity that complemented the dish beautifully. Visually and technically, this was an impressive demonstration of Chef Edip's ability to create complexity within a deceptively small course.

3. Cold-Water Shrimp (Photo 8)

kohlrabi | N25 caviar | apple | red onions

Delicately arranged cold-water shrimp were paired with kohlrabi, N25 caviar, apple and red onion. Bright herb oils and subtle acidity created a light, refreshing opening course that balanced sweetness, salinity and texture with remarkable precision.

4. Pan-Seared Scallop (Photo 9)

pumpkin | broccoli | ponzu | ginger

The pan-seared scallop combined natural sweetness with earthy pumpkin and vibrant broccoli. Ponzu and ginger added freshness while a delicate foam tied the components together in a dish that was both refined and comforting.

5. Sweetbread (Photo 10)

smoked paprika | sauerkraut | white pepper

Perfectly prepared sweetbread delivered richness that was balanced by the acidity of sauerkraut. Smoked paprika added warmth while white pepper provided subtle spice, resulting in a dish that was both powerful and elegant.

6. Breton Turbot (Photo 11)

Alba truffle | ceps | chestnut | crispy chicken skin

The turbot was flawlessly cooked and accompanied by ceps, chestnut and Alba truffle. A crisp chicken skin garnish added texture, while a deeply flavoured sauce enhanced the fish without overwhelming its delicate character.

7. Imperial Quail (Photo 12)

N25 Kaluga Reserve caviar | Périgord truffle

The quail course arrived with considerable theatre, having first been presented whole before returning from the kitchen for plating. The finished dish was visually stunning, featuring slices of Périgord truffle accompanied the beautifully cooked quail, supported by caviar and a rich sauce. While the caviar's salinity slightly overshadowed the delicate flavour of the meat, this remained one of the evening's most memorable courses.

9. Saffron Ice (Photo 13)

fermented rosehip | pumpkin seed oil

A vibrant saffron ice formed the centrepiece of this striking dessert. The floral notes of saffron were balanced by the acidity of fermented rosehip, while pumpkin seed oil added subtle earthy depth. Elegant, refreshing and visually captivating.

9. Chocolate (Photo 14)

blueberry | ginger | macadamia nut

Presented beneath a dramatic black cloche, the chocolate dessert combined blueberry, ginger and macadamia nut in a composition that balanced richness, acidity and texture. It provided an elegant conclusion to the savory portion of the menu.

The Entry

Guests enter es:senz through the elegant foyer of the Das Achental resort before being guided into the restaurant's purpose-built dining space. The transition is seamless, with extensive use of natural timber, stone
and earthy tones creating a refined environment that reflects the surrounding Chiemgau landscape. At the heart of the room stands a striking marble centrepiece, serving as both a visual focal point and a functional service station. Adorned with seasonal floral arrangements and glassware, it introduces a sense of theatre while reinforcing the restaurant's understated luxury. The overall design feels contemporary yet deeply connected to its local setting, providing an appropriate stage for Chef Edip's ingredient-driven cuisine.

My arrival at es:senz differed somewhat from my usual dining experiences on this tour. Prior to my visit, Justus, the Marketing Manager, and Felix, the Restaurant Manager, had kindly arranged for me to meet Chef Edip at 3pm, several hours before my 7pm dinner reservation. This unique opportunity provided an insightful introduction to the chef, his philosophy and the operation behind one of Germany's most acclaimed restaurants. Further details of this meeting will follow later in this review.

Welcome

The resort receptionist promptly notified Felix of my arrival, who appeared moments later with a warm greeting and a firm handshake. He escorted me to a section of the restaurant that had been specifically reserved for the interview, a thoughtful gesture that immediately demonstrated the team's commitment to delivering on every promise. Chef Edip arrived shortly thereafter and his approachable manner and humility quickly put me at ease. It was evident from the outset that this would be an engaging discussion. Details of the interview to follow in a later section of this review.

By evening, the dining room had adopted a noticeably different character. Soft lighting, warm timber finishes and views of the illuminated gardens created a calm and intimate atmosphere, while the generously spaced
tables reinforced the sense of exclusivity. Upon my return, the reception team efficiently completed the formalities before escorting me to my table for the evening's experience.

Menu

Alexandra ("Alex") introduced herself at my table and presented an impressively large menu offering both a6-course and 9-course tasting menu options. The menu reflected Chef Edip's commitment to showcasing the finest seasonal ingredients through a contemporary and highly refined style of cooking. Consistent with my usual preference when visiting leading restaurants, I selected the 9-course tasting menu to fully experience the breadth of the kitchen's offering.

Food Commentary

The opening amuse-bouche selections immediately showcased the creativity and precision of Chef Edip's cuisine. The second was accompanied by freshly baked potato bread and brioche with house-made rich mountain butter, which proved impossible to resist and would later have consequences for my appetite.

As the menu progressed, many dishes revealed hidden layers of carefully balanced ingredients beneath understated presentations. The quail course was particularly memorable, being theatrically presented whole in a basket adorned with what resembled a Christmas wreath before being finished in the kitchen.

It is difficult to offer any meaningful criticism of the cooking. My only observation was that the saltiness of the caviar accompanying the quail overshadowed the delicate flavour of the beautifully cooked quail.

By the fifth course, I began to feel the effects of my earlier enthusiasm for the bread service. With some disappointment, I reluctantly requested that my menu be reduced to six courses. Somehow, Alex sensed my discomfort before I had fully explained it and graciously accommodated my wishes. By the end of the evening, I even requested that the petit fours be packaged to take away.

This absolutely in no way a reflection of the quality or execution of the menu at es:senz. Instead, it was the consequence of my own overindulgence with the bread service and the cumulative effects of undertaking a demanding schedule of back-to-back fine dining experiences over the last week.

Service Observations

The quality of the food service was nothing short of exceptional. Every movement of the team appeared perfectly synchronised, creating a seamless experience that required no anticipation or prompting from guests. This level of execution is undoubtedly a reflection of both the systems established by Chef Edip and the calibre of staff he has assembled.

Alex was one of the standout members of the service team. At just 22 years of age and having spent 3.5 years at es:senz, she displayed remarkable confidence, maturity and professionalism well beyond her years. Whether discussing cooking techniques, ingredient sourcing or menu philosophy, her knowledge was extensive and delivered with complete assurance & confidence. Her admiration for Chef Edip and pride in being part of the team at such a young age provided a clear insight into the culture of excellence that underpins es:senz.

Chef Interview

Chef Edip generously offered some time during the afternoon for a candid conversation ahead of dinner service. Having arrived earlier in the day by prior arrangement with Justus and Felix, I was given a rare opportunity to discuss a range of topics with the chef, including how he maintains his relentless pursuit of perfection, the impact of Michelin recognition on the business, and the methods he uses to motivate and develop his team. The discussion was entirely unscripted and unstructured, allowing the conversationto flow naturally.

What was intended to be a brief 15-minute interview extended to more than 30 minutes. Chef Edip spoke openly about perfection, Michelin recognition and staff development, while expressing particular pride in the many team members who have remained with him for three to four years. The discussion provided valuable insight into the culture he has built at es:senz. One statement in particular resonated with me: “I need to be better today than yesterday, and better tomorrow than today.” This simple philosophy perhaps best explains the relentless pursuit of excellence that has propelled both Chef Edip and es:senz to the pinnacle of German gastronomy. A transcript of the interview will be published on my website shortly.

Wine Pairing

With a 100-kilometre drive back to Munich awaiting me after dinner, I elected to forgo the traditional wine pairing. The sommelier, however, was understandably enthusiastic about sharing his selections and encouraged me to begin with a glass of Krug Champagne. Mindful of my upcoming next dinner, he thoughtfully reduced the pour size so that I could experience the wine without consuming a full serving.

His passion for the pairing was evident, and he continued to offer small tastes of several wines throughout the evening. While appreciative of his generosity and expertise, I eventually declined further offerings to ensure I remained prepared for the drive home particularly on sections of the German Autobahn.

Overall

es:senz delivered an experience that fully justified its 3-Michelin stars. Chef Edip Sigl's cuisine demonstrated exceptional restraint, allowing outstanding regional ingredients to speak for themselves while still incorporating the creativity and technical precision expected at this level. The dishes were elegant, balanced and often revealed layers of complexity beneath deceptively simple presentations.

Equally impressive was the culture that appears to exist throughout the restaurant. From Felix to Alex to the sommelier, every member of the team displayed genuine pride in their work and a commitment to ensuring guests felt welcomed and cared for. My afternoon with Chef Edip only reinforced this impression, revealing a leader who remains deeply invested in both his craft and the people around him.

Despite my self-inflicted defeat at the hands of the bread service, es:senz remains one of the most complete dining experiences of this Michelin Marathon thus far. It is a restaurant that combines world-class cooking with authentic hospitality, making the journey from Munich more than worthwhile. The evening concluded with a thoughtful gesture from Chef Edip, who graciously adjusted my bill in recognition of my inability to complete the full menu with the reduction of courses to 6, further demonstrating the genuine hospitality that defines es:senz.

Have you dined here? Was your experience the same? Love to hear your comments. Next stop: #07

Experience Score

Reservation Process: 8/10
Welcome: 10/10
Atmosphere: 9.5/10
Room Decor: 8.5/10
Food Theatre: 8.5/10
Food Presentation: 10/10
Food Taste: 9.5/10
Food Portions: 10/10
Dinnerware: 9/10
Attentiveness: 10/10
Service: 10/10
Staff Knowledge: 10/10
Staff Attire: 10/10
Passion: 10/10
Guest Dress Std: 9.5/10
Value: 10/10