Restaurant Review

Michelin Marathon – Restaurant #08/22

Verdict in 30 Seconds

• Why go: One of Italy's newest three Michelin star restaurants offering exceptional value, outstanding hospitality, and a chef's table experience that provides a rare glimpse into the workings of an elite kitchen.
• Watch out for: Reservation process is a weak point as email communications taking longer than expected so allow sufficient time.
• Best moment: Sitting among just seven guests at the chef's table, watching a three Michelin star brigade operate with absolute precision while enjoying a menu where flavour consistently exceeded expectations.

Introduction

Casa Perbellini 12 Apostoli is one of Italy's most historic restaurants, with origins dating back to the 18th century when this was only a Trattoria. The restaurant entered a new era when Chef Giancarlo Perbellini, who first worked here as a young chef at age 18, returned as owner and chef-patron, relocating his acclaimed Casa Perbellini to the historic Verona premises in 2023. Just one year later, Casa Perbellini 12 Apostoli was officially awarded its third Michelin star in November 2024 for inclusion in the 2025 Michelin Guide, cementing its place among Italy's culinary elite. Housed within a historic building distinguished by its striped brick-&-stone façade, the restaurant effortlessly combines centuries of tradition with Perbellini's refined contemporary vision.

Beneath the restaurant lies one of its most fascinating features: a remarkable basement extending approx. 7 meters below street level. Accessed through preserved stone passageways and ancient foundations, this subterranean space reveals layers of Verona's history through exposed masonry and archaeological remains. Today it houses the restaurant's extensive wine cellar and an exclusive private dining area, creating a unique setting where history, wine and gastronomy converge in a way few restaurants can match.

Course Commentary

Hover over 'Photo No' against each dish to reveal a thumbnail of that dish. Clicking that will take you directly to the photo gallery of that dish.

01 Amuse-Bouchés (Photos 05, 07, 09 & 11)

• Trio of Opening Bites - A selection of three delicate amuse-bouchées showcasing contrasting textures and concentrated flavours, providing an elegant introduction to the evening.
• Signature - Spoon of Spaghetti - A single spoonful of perfectly cooked pasta demonstrating how simplicity, precision and flavour can create an unexpectedly memorable dish.
• Warm Savoury Course - A comforting and refined preparation featuring a rich savoury base topped with a light foam, delivering depth and balance despite its understated appearance.
• Refined Caviar Bite - A delicate, highly concentrated bite that combined elegance, texture and salinity in a dish where less was clearly more.

02. My Wafer (Photo 13)

Sea bass tartare, goat cheese & liquorice sauce

A surprisingly harmonious combination. The liquorice sauce, resembling molasses but made from just water, sugar and liquorice, added a delicate sweetness that tied the dish together beautifully.

03. "Milanese" Salad (Photo 14)

A deceptively simple lettuce salad elevated by an intensely flavoured sauce that transformed the dish into something far more memorable than its appearance suggested.

04. Monaka with Red Prawns, Horseradish, Rose & Beetroot (Photo 16)

A visually stunning dish balancing sweetness, earthiness and gentle spice, with the red prawn taking centre stage.

05. Crispy Red Mullet, Cappon Magro (Photo 17)

Beautifully crisp and delicate, delivering layers of flavour and texture without overwhelming the fish itself.

06. Smoked Amberjack (Photo 18)

Woodland Mushroom Emulsion, Porcini Mushrooms and Brewer's Yeast Powder

A deeply savoury course with pronounced umami notes, where the earthiness of the mushrooms complemented the smokiness of the fish exceptionally well.

07. Ravioli Filled with Pavese Emulsion and Bread Broth with White Truffle (Photo 20)

A deceptively simple dish packed with flavour. The white truffle elevated an already rich and comforting combination to another level.

08. Dry-Aged Beef, Black Truffle & Whiskey Jus (Photo 21)

Perfectly cooked beef paired with an intensely rich jus. A classic combination executed with precision and restraint.

09. Oh My... Goose!!! (Photo 22)

A single bite that justified its playful name. Rich, concentrated and deeply satisfying, leaving a lasting impression despite its size.

10. Tamarind and Coffee Cascara (Photo 23)

A refreshing and elegant pre-dessert that balanced sweetness and acidity, cleansing the palate while preparing it for the final courses.

11. Chocolate Textures (Photo 24)

The standout dessert of the evening. Rich, indulgent and technically impressive, yet sufficiently restrained to avoid becoming overly sweet or heavy.

12. Casa Perbellini Sweetness (Photo 25)

A refined selection of petit fours showcasing a range of flavours and textures, providing a fitting finale to an exceptional dining experience.

The Entry/Welcome

Located within a narrow cobblestone-lined street of the old town of Verona, stood the imposing façade of this historic building. Illuminated by a large hanging lantern and framed by decorative brickwork, the entrance projected both grandeur and history, making it one of the more visually striking restaurant arrivals of this Michelin Marathon. This was also the first restaurant of the tour where I had been invited to dine at the chef's table, an opportunity I considered a genuine privilege.

Upon entering through the large glass double doors, I was welcomed by one of the restaurant's three sommeliers, Stefano Zandarin. Just inside the entrance stood a further six members of staff, including Chef Giancarlo Perbellini himself, who personally greeted me and the arriving guests. The team presented well, befitting the calibre of the restaurant, with the men dressed in tailored black suits without ties and the women in elegant burgundy suits.

After a brief wait for another English-speaking couple, from New Zealand, Stefano escorted us on a tour of the restaurant before the evening's service commenced.

Menu/ Food Commentary

No menu was placed at the table, as the entire dining experience was intended to be a complete surprise. Under normal circumstances, I would have happily embraced this approach. However, with a review still to be written, taking accurate notes proved somewhat challenging. Upon politely explaining my predicament to Stefano, he kindly made an exception and provided me with a copy of the menu.

The menu descriptions themselves were remarkably brief and understated, particularly when compared to the intensity and complexity of the dishes that followed. Course after course delivered unexpected flavours, with ingredients and techniques combined so seamlessly that the entire experience felt like a masterclass in taste and balance. From a seemingly simple spoonful of spaghetti, perfectly cooked and deeply flavoured, to a delicate sea bass wafer paired with a liquorice sauce that by all logic should not have worked, yet it absolutelydid😊, every dish challenged expectations.

There was no doubt that considerable thought, creativity and technical skill had been invested into the menu. During my interview, Chef Giancarlo explained that his primary focus is always taste and the guest experience, while presentation of dishes is entrusted largely to other members of his team. That philosophy was evident throughout the meal. The flavours consistently took centre stage, supported by refined presentation.

Service Observations

The service at Casa Perbellini was simply exceptional and among the finest I have experienced during this Michelin Marathon. Throughout the evening, Stefano being the better English speaking staff member was primarily dedicated to myself and the New Zealand couple seated at the chef's table, expertly handling multiple roles including waiter, host and sommelier.

What truly set the service apart was the extraordinary attention to detail. Plates were cleared almost instantly after each course, cutlery was replaced with flawless timing and every aspect of the table was constantly monitored. On one occasion, my napkin slipped unnoticed to my ankles, yet a fresh napkin appeared within seconds before I even had the opportunity to pick it up myself. Such moments occurred repeatedly throughout the night and reflected a service philosophy where staff seemed to anticipate needs before guests even became aware of them.

Despite operating at the highest level of fine dining, the service never felt formal or intimidating. Instead, it was warm, polished and effortlessly executed. Casa Perbellini delivered a level of service that ranks among the very best I have experienced during this tour. It was not simply efficient service; it was hospitality performed at an elite level.

Chef’ Dining Table Experience (Photo 03)

Entry into the chef’s dining table was an experience in its own. Following the tour, Stefano led us through the basement to the chef's dining area. As one of just 7 guests seated at the chef's table that evening, the experience immediately felt exclusive and intimate. Rather than a traditional dining room, the space resembled a private culinary theatre, with diners positioned beside the kitchen and surrounded by large viewing windows that offered an uninterrupted view of the various workstations.

What struck me most was the calmness of the environment. Despite an entire brigade of chefs working only meters away, the kitchen operated with remarkable calm and precision. From my seat, I was able to observe the craftsmanship behind every course as it was assembled and dispatched. It felt less like dining in a restaurant and more like having a front-row seat to a meticulously choreographed performance, providing a rare insight into the inner workings of a 3-Michelin star kitchen.

Consistent with maintaining the independence of this tour, cost of this dinner was fully paid by me at normal price.

Wine Pairing

Unlike most of the Michelin-starred restaurants visited during this marathon, where wine pairings are offered as an optional supplement, Casa Perbellini included the pairing as part of the tasting menu. Stefano guided this aspect of the experience with the same confidence and professionalism he demonstrated throughout the evening.

The wines selected were generally youthful vintages from 2021 to 2024, with the notable exception of a 2015 “Grands Terroirs” Champagne. Under normal circumstances, such a young selection may have invited discussion, particularly at this level of dining. However, considering the remarkably reasonable menuprice, the quality of the pairings and the overall guest experience, it became a point scarcely worth debating. While several wines were carried across multiple courses, each pairing felt carefully considered and complemented the dishes exceptionally well. Rather than seeking to impress through rarity or age, the wine program focused on enhancing the food, and in that regard it succeeded admirably.

Restaurant Tour

The restaurant tour hosted by Stefano was nothing short of fascinating. The highlight was undoubtedly the basement, located some 7 meters below street level. Descending the staircase felt less like entering a restaurant cellar and more like exploring an archaeological excavation, with ancient stonework and exposed foundations revealing layers of Verona's history. Stefano explained that many of the buildings throughout the old town conceal similar subterranean structures, a testament to the city's remarkable heritage & engineering.

The basement itself was equally impressive. Floor-to-ceiling wine racks housed an extensive collection from across Italy and around the world, while a series of private dining rooms provided an intimate setting for special occasions. Beyond these spaces lay the main kitchen and the chef's table, where I would be dining this evening.

Chef Interview

After dinner, Stefano generously arranged a meeting with Chef Giancarlo Perbellini in one of the restaurant's private dining rooms and remained with us throughout the conversation. Coincidentally, the room contained a photograph of Chef Giancarlo as an 18-year-old apprentice at 12 Apostoli, making it a particularly fitting setting for the interview.

Chef initially expressed some concern about his English compromising the interview, but I reassured him that his English was many times better than my non existent Italian😊. His command of the language was excellent, allowing the conversation to flow effortlessly. He spoke openly about returning to the restaurant where his career began, the challenge of upholding its historic legacy, and the journey that ultimately led to three Michelin stars.

Stefano also took part in the discussion, sharing insights into the restaurant's wine programme and some of the unique challenges involved in creating wine pairings for dishes of such complexity and precision. The conversation highlighted the close collaboration between chef Giancarlo and sommelier team in delivering a seamless guest experience.

What was intended to be a brief conversation ultimately extended well beyond my expectations, providing a memorable insight into both the chef and the person behind one of Italy's most celebrated restaurants. This interview will be published on the WoFD website under "Chef Interviews".

Overall

Casa Perbellini 12 Apostoli delivered one of the most complete dining experiences of this Michelin Marathon. The combination of a unique chef's table setting, exceptional service, fascinating historic surroundings and a genuinely engaging chef interview created an experience that extended well beyond the food itself.

What impressed me most, however, was Chef Giancarlo's unwavering focus on flavour. Time and again, seemingly simple dishes delivered remarkable depth, balance and surprise, proving that technical mastery does not need to come at the expense of taste. Combined with the included wine pairing, outstanding hospitality from Stefano along with other staff and the opportunity to observe a 3-Michelin star kitchen at work, Casa Perbellini is not only worthy of its 3 stars but also represents exceptional value. It stands as one of the standout experiences of this Michelin Marathon.

Have you dined here? Was your experience the same? Love to hear your comments. Next stop: #09

Experience Score

Reservation Process

6.5/10

Welcome

9/10

Atmosphere

10/10

Room Decor

10/10

Food Theatre

10/10

Food Presentation

10/10

Food Taste

10/10

Food Portions

10/10

Dinnerware

9/10

Attentiveness

10/10

Service

10/10

Staff Knowledge

10/10

Staff Attire

9/10

Passion

10/10

Sommelier

9/10

Wine Pairing

10/10

Guest Dress Std

8/10

Value

10/10