Restaurant Review
Michelin Marathon – Restaurant #01/22
Verdict in 30 Seconds
- Why go: Technically accomplished cooking in a beautifully restored brick-vaulted wine cellar, with creative takes on Austrian classics such as the savoury lobster “Kaiserschmarrn”
- Watch out for: A cold, functional welcome (3/10) and a wine pairing dominated by young whites (3/10). Ask for reds if that’s your preference.
- Best moment: Breaking the wax seal on the menu, and the Patagonian toothfish, perhaps the best dish of the night.
Introduction
Amador is the flagship restaurant of renowned chef-owner Juan Amador, one of the most influential figures in modern European gastronomy. Located in Vienna, the restaurant became Austria’s first 3-Michelin-star restaurant in 2019 and, with a tasting menu priced at €395 before beverages, ranks among the country’s most expensive dining experiences.
The Entry
The experience did not begin as expected. On a rainy Vienna evening, I arrived juggling a camera bag, a camera mounted on an extended pole on one hand, and an umbrella in the other. Opening the restaurant’s large manual glass door proved challenging, yet no assistance was offered despite staff being visible inside. For a restaurant of this caliber, one might reasonably expect greater attentiveness to arriving guests, particularly in poor weather. After eventually making my way in, there was no immediate welcome. A staff member had to radio in for a colleague to attend the entrance, but the greeting that followed felt functional rather than warm, consisting only of a question as to whether this was my first visit. For a 3-Michelin-star restaurant, the arrival experience lacked the sense of hospitality and occasion one might reasonably expect.
Layout
The restaurant occupies a beautifully restored historic wine cellar, blending contemporary elegance with old-world charm. Exposed brick vaults and arches create a sense of warmth and character, while cream upholstered chairs, curved banquettes, dark timber accents, and minimalist table settings provide a refined modern contrast. Subtle lighting highlights the architecture and contributes to a calm, intimate atmosphere.
I was seated at a spacious round table dressed with a perfectly fitted white tablecloth. The team had thoughtfully placed a small stool beside the table for my camera equipment and case, a practical and considerate touch that was appreciated.
Menu
The menu was presented folded and ends sealed with wax, creating a sense of occasion. Breaking the seal revealed the evening’s offerings, accompanied by a brief explanation of the menu and the availability of extra supplements, all of which I declined. I also opted for the half wine pairing, where reduced pours are offered for guests who may be driving. In retrospect, this proved to be a disappointing decision, for reasons discussed later.
Service Observations
It quickly became apparent that the service was highly regimented, to the point where it often felt robotic, and lacking in warmth. Genuine engagement was limited, and interactions appeared driven more by a rehearsed process than by sincere genuine hospitality. This did not appear to be confined to my table; similar service patterns could be observed throughout the adjacent tables.
Adding to this sense of detachment, none of the service staff introduced themselves during the meal. The lack of these personal touches made the experience feel more procedural than personable. Repeatedly asking “How was it?” after every course expecting a positive response also became intrusive, as genuine feedback is best volunteered rather than routinely prompted.
A Missed Opportunity
The experience also felt somewhat detached on a personal level. Prior to my visit, I had communicated with the restaurant several times regarding my Michelin marathon. While I had no particular expectation that this would receive special attention, I found it notable that it was never referenced during the evening. A brief conversation around a guest’s purpose for visiting can often help foster a greater sense of engagement and hospitality.
Wine Pairing
As this was the first restaurant of my Michelin marathon, I opted for the wine pairing. Unfortunately, it proved to be one of the weaker aspects of the experience. Aside from two selections, the pairing was heavily weighted towards white wines, many of which felt disconnected from the dishes and did little to enhance them. Most of the wines were also relatively young, predominantly from the 2020-2024 vintages, offering limited maturity and complexity.
To the sommelier's credit, he offered to focus more on red wines, but I chose to trust his judgement and leave the selections in his hands. The final dessert wine was particularly disappointing, lacking the richness and sweetness one would expect from a sticky wine and resulting in an underwhelming finish to the pairing.
Overall
Amador delivered a technically accomplished menu in a nice setting, with several memorable dishes showcasing creativity. However, the experience was undermined by a service style that felt overly procedural and impersonal, resulting in a surprising lack of warmth, engagement, and hospitality for a restaurant of this caliber.
Food Commentary
1. Kiwi, Oscietra N25, Coconut
A refreshing opening bite combining the bright acidity of kiwi with the rich salinity of- Oscietra caviar, finished with creamy coconut for a delicate balance of sweetness and ocean flavours.
2. Walk in a Forest
A signature nature-inspired creation evoking the aromas and textures of the forest floor, featuring earthy, herbal and woodland flavours presented in a playful manner.
3. La Nueva Gilda
A modern interpretation of Spain's famous Gilda pintxo, delivering a vibrant combination of briny, tangy and savoury flavours in a single bite.
4. Potatoes, Leek, Pumpkin Seed Oil
A comforting vegetable-focused dish where sweet leeks and potato are elevated by the nutty depth and aromatic richness of pumpkin seed oil.
5. King Crab "Viennese Style", Cider & Horseradish
Sweet, delicate king crab enhanced by the freshness of cider and the gentle heat of horseradish, inspired by classic Viennese flavours.
6. Iced Beurre Blanc
Gillardeau, Oyster No. 2, Hazelnut Milk, N25 Caviar
A luxurious seafood course pairing pristine oysters and premium caviar with a chilled beurre blanc, softened by the subtle sweetness of hazelnut milk.
7. "Kaiserschmarrn"
Norway Lobster, Salted Apricot, Chorizo
A savoury reinterpretation of the Austrian dessert, combining sweet lobster, fruity apricot and smoky chorizo for an intriguing contrast of flavours. The hero ingredient of the lobster was firm and well match with the other ingredients.
8. Patagonian Toothfish
Maultaschen, "Potato Salad", Brown Butter
Exceptionally well cooked, rich and buttery toothfish accompanied by refined German-inspired accompaniments, with nutty brown butter bringing warmth and depth. Perhaps the best dish of the total menu.
9. Kagoshima Beef
Porcini, Aubergine, Vadouvan
Wagyu Japanese beef served with earthy porcini mushrooms, silky aubergine and fragrant vadouvan curry spices. This could have been better dish except for the fat of the wagyu was not rendered properly leaving exposed fat.
10. Autumn Leaves
Decana, Pear , Macadamia , Michel Cluizel Chocolate
A seasonal dessert showcasing ripe pear, creamy macadamia and premium chocolate in a composition celebrating autumnal flavours.
11. Iced Lollipop
A refreshing palate cleanser presented as a playful frozen lollipop, offering a burst of clean, and vibrant flavours on your tongue.
12. Applestrudel
A contemporary reinvention of the classic Austrian apple strudel, featuring apple flavours and modern textures.
13. Cuba Libre
A dessert interpretation of the famous cocktail, combining notes of rum, cola and citrus in a creative sweet format.
14. Our Black Forest Cake
The restaurant's refined take on the iconic German cake, balancing chocolate, cherries and cream with elegance and precision.
15. Pêche Melba
A modern rendition of the classic peach dessert, featuring juicy peaches paired with creamy and fruity accompaniments.
16. Happy, End
A final series of petit fours and sweet chocolates designed to conclude the meal on a playful note.
Experience Score
- Reservation Process
- 6/10
- Welcome
- 3/10
- Atmosphere
- 6/10
- Room Decor
- 6/10
- Food Theatre
- 8/10
- Food Presentation
- 7/10
- Food Taste
- 7/10
- Food Portions
- 6/10
- Dinnerware
- 8/10
- Attentiveness
- 6/10
- Service
- 6/10
- Staff Knowledge
- 6/10
- Staff Attire
- 5/10
- Passion
- 5/10
- Sommelier
- 5/10
- Wine Pairing
- 3/10
- Guest Dress Std
- 6/10
- Value
- 5.5/10